trailer hitch and wiring kit ~

renovation · Post by **renovation** » Wed Aug 20, 2014 5:41 pm

anyone have any idea how much work I'll be looking at. To install a class 3 hitch on my wife's 2008 Saturn XR dual Exhaust v6 . also the wiring harness kit !
this is what I order .
http://vod.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrderDetai ... Name=ADME:

EvilHorace · Post by **EvilHorace** » Wed Aug 20, 2014 6:31 pm

Maybe 2-3 hours labor if the bumper has to be removed to do it.

eGoCeNTRoNiX · Post by **eGoCeNTRoNiX** » Wed Aug 20, 2014 7:35 pm

What ^^ said.. Usually doesn't take long. I need to get off my butt and order hitches for mine and my wife's car..

Pugsley · Post by **Pugsley** » Wed Aug 20, 2014 8:23 pm

I did one on my 2003 Beetle several years back. It took 2 hours to get the hitch on. I did my own wiring for my trailer since my car has separate brake and turn lights. I made my trailer with the same setup so I used a 6 pin connector so I could split the brake and turn both into pairs. So when I tow it with my car I get separate brake and turn. When people borrow the trailer I have a 4 to 6 pin adapter that I made so they can run it with combined turn/brake lights. I also made an adapter cable so I can use my 6 pin to run a 4 pin trailer.

If I had to do it again I would have just added a combiner and put a 4 pin on the car and trailer and been done.

renovation · Post by **renovation** » Thu Aug 21, 2014 7:43 pm

this job going to be a whole lot easier .today a friend offer up his hoist for the job. wasn't looking forward to doing this on the ground !

renovation · Post by **renovation** » Wed Aug 27, 2014 11:03 pm

kit arrived today -hitch seems simple enough . the wire harness that going to be a bit more work . looking over the paper work the thing seems like a plug and go harness except .it's calling for me to run a lead wire all the way to positive post on the battery. from the rear of the car this is to be a min of 12 gage wire. also need to install a 10 amp fuse and holder in this line .
(im thinking this is over kill for what I'm needing as I'm just running trailer exterior lighting . ( turn ,break and running lights) I,m not going to ever be trying to charge a battery on any trailer though my cars electrical system. { could the extra hot wire be for a new law coming out requiring always on rear running lights while towing ?} this is wire set I received today ( http://www.cequentconsumerproducts.com/ ... -Guide.htm ) and instructions can be found on that site page .
here a copy less pictures ----
TOOLS NEEDED:
Trim Panel Remover, 10mm Socket &
Ratchet or 10mm Wrench, Drill (3/32” Drill Bit),
1/4” socket, Torx-45, Torx-30, Philips Head
Screwdriver, Test-probe
1. Open the rear lift gate. Remove threshold plate, trunk
floor panels and spare tire tray from vehicle d.
Remove cargo loops e-1, phillips head screws
e-2, and the sliders and screws from the side rails
e-3 & e-4 so that the driver’s side trim panel can
be carefully pulled away from the vehicle e.
2. On the driver’s side of the vehicle, remove the
fasteners that hold the black Styrofoam tray and
carefully pry the black Styrofoam tray out f.
3. Locate the plastic side pocket inside of the driver’s
side trim panel g.Using the panel puller, slowly
pry up the tray until it pops out of the panel.
4. On the passenger side, locate a small opening beneath
the Styrofoam pad h. Reach in and pry the plastic
side pocket up out of the trim panel.
5. On the driver and passenger sides of the vehicle,
locate the vehicles' taillight wiring harness (inside
the panel where the plastic trays have been removed)
g. The taillight wiring harness will have a connection
point, on both sides, matching the ends of the
T-Connector. Separate this connector, being careful
not to break the locking tabs. All connector surfaces
should be clean and free of dirt.
6. On the passenger side, insert the T-Connector end,
with the green wire, between the vehicle wiring
connectors and lock into place. Be sure that
connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
7. On the passenger’s side route the T-Connector end
with the yellow wire through the trim panel access
hole, across the threshold, & through the drivers trim
panel access hole. Repeat step 6 for the driver’s side
using the T-Connector harness end with the
yellow wire.
8. On the passenger’s side, locate existing ground
stud inside the trim panel. Loosen the nut, place
T-Connector white wire with ring terminal on stud
and retighten the nut, making sure that all existing
ground connections are still attached.
9. Route the black wire into the engine compartment
up to the battery i.
WARNING
Route the wire being careful to avoid any hot pipes,
heat shields, the fuel tank or any other points that
may pinch or break the wire.
10. Disconnect the vehicle’s Negative (-) battery cable.
If not removed, remove the fuse from the yellow
fuse holder (provided). After cutting the fuse holder
wire j, attach the ring terminal and secure to the
vehicle’s Positive (+) battery cable k. Connect the
other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 ga.
wire, using the yellow butt connector (provided).
11. Reconnect the vehicle’s Negative (-) battery cable
and install the 10 amp fuse into the fuse holder
from step 10.
WARNING
All connections must be complete for the
T-Connector to function properly. Test and verify
installation with a test light or trailer once installed.
12. Mount the T-Connector black box using
double-sided tape provided. Secure the remainder
of the T-Connector harness with the cable ties
provided, to prevent damage or rattling and
being careful to avoid any areas that would
pinch, cut or melt the wire.
13. Reposition passenger side panels, trays and
trunk floor panels and reattach the threshold.
NOTE
Store 4-Flat in rear cargo area when not in use.
WARNING
Overloading circuit can cause fires. DO NOT exceed
lower of towing manufacturer rating or:
• Max. stop/turn light: 1 per side (2.1 amps)
• Max. tail lights: (4.2 amps)
Read vehicle’s owners manual & instruction sheet
for additional information.
•f
•j
•g
•h
•k
•d
•e
Installation Instructions
Directives de Montage

eGoCeNTRoNiX · Post by **eGoCeNTRoNiX** » Thu Aug 28, 2014 6:51 am

Do you have a rear lighter outlet that you could tie into?

renovation · Post by **renovation** » Thu Aug 28, 2014 7:14 am

im not sure will have to check ~

renovation · Post by **renovation** » Thu Aug 28, 2014 8:06 pm

turned into a bigger job then planned . had to tap out the bolt holes due to road dirt/junk and stuff that has collected over the years. also finding out I do have to run the hot lead to a 12 volt source . hooked all the wires up less the 12 volt lead thinking it was just needed for a electric brake system or always hot electrical trailer hook up - well I was wrong nothing new there !
{ego I do have a rear lighter outlet so im thinking it will come in handy tomorrow

eGoCeNTRoNiX · Post by **eGoCeNTRoNiX** » Thu Aug 28, 2014 8:21 pm

Yah, I'd just tie into the rear lighter outlet and put the inline fuse between the lighter and the trailer adapter.. Should be more than you need since the lighter should be fused at 15 or 20A..

GL

renovation · Post by **renovation** » Fri Aug 29, 2014 3:01 pm

done now and all works .think the deal is with the cars headlights lights being always on when running -they had to do it this way or the unit wouldn't work as I found out . but what I did was picked up a cigarette adapter that I can just plug into the rear unit as needed and the hitch wiring will work this way.
went to radio shack and bought one of these - simple and easy on all but the pocket ~ http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=3875401

wvjohn · Post by **wvjohn** » Fri Aug 29, 2014 4:54 pm

Keep an eye out for weird messages from your car when you're using it. It have a little problemo with something on one of my rear lights on my camper which sometimes causes a problem. 07 Rav4. If you hook it up cold and start the car, the diagnostics think that there is something wrong the car, hook it up hot and no problem.

I've gotten to the point where I know these "little' jobs are going to bite me and I just take it somewhere and let them do it.

EvilHorace · Post by **EvilHorace** » Fri Aug 29, 2014 7:23 pm

We had a vehicle come in today where some rocket scientist wired the trailer hitch wiring from the battery to the back, under the car and wire tied it to the LR axle shaft (DOH!). Needless to say, the wire was wrapped around the axle shaft and destroyed the LR ABS wheel speed sensor too.

renovation · Post by **renovation** » Sat Aug 30, 2014 9:07 pm

fun day - but I have one wired car carrier all wires are electrical taped and then wrap in a protective plastic harness loom . better safe then sorry down the road -just a bit over killed ~