Alternator

renovation · Post by **renovation** » Fri Mar 07, 2014 10:23 am

im thinking the Alternator gave out on my 2--2 Saturn now -wouldn't turn over last night. crank for a sec and that was it .dome light went on when I open the door . I have it tested later today . but its been a long time last I had to buy a replacement rebuilt. and back then it was like $35 -$55 for a rebuilt Alternator. dam prices sure have changed just went pricing a rebuilt unit .there all asking $199 you talk about sticker shock. core prices are still near where they use to be around $20.00 time have sure changed . Im sure the parts needed to rebuild one are the same. just a couple of bearing , replace the brushes, replace the rectifier ,replace the voltage regulator
and rebuild reassemble the alternator. all the parts were like $10-$15 last time worked on one - take maybe 1 hour or less on a bench to do.

DaMaN · Post by **DaMaN** » Fri Mar 07, 2014 11:29 am

Mike try using the online coupons on slickdeals.net for Advanced Auto Parts online if there are any in your area. Order online, and pickup at the store.

Err · Post by **Err** » Fri Mar 07, 2014 2:30 pm

Check rockauto.com.

Is the 199 before or after the core return. If that's after, you are getting hosed.

wvjohn · Post by **wvjohn** » Fri Mar 07, 2014 7:02 pm

Prices on used stuff are insane. My daughter blew the engine in her Dakota, and I'm thinking she can get it fixed with a junkyard special for $5-600, Ha Ha. I checked with my handyman who builds demo derby cars - he said the decent stuff is now auctioned off whole car (or half car it's been hit) like storage wars.

EvilHorace · Post by **EvilHorace** » Fri Mar 07, 2014 8:28 pm

Do you know for sure that your alternator's NG or are you guessing? There can be other reasons why the battery was dead, like current draw (dome light stayed on overnight, etc) or just a bad battery.

To test an alternator, you do that on the car with the engine running, NOT a bench test off the car. The easiest thing to do is first check the battery's voltage (when charged), say 12.5V. Then start the car and check voltage again at the battery, if now 14.5Vs (for example), the alternator's good. If still 12.5V or less running (and even less with lights on, etc), alternator's NG.

A shop will do a load test on an alternator with the engine running but the test above is usually good enough to rule out whether or not it's actually charging.

renovation · Post by **renovation** » Fri Mar 07, 2014 10:50 pm

at this point its just a guess but it has tons of electrical problems going on with it. so there maybe a short or shorts happening .
truth is if we were not so unsure what were doing with the wife about to retire and maybe moving to tampa - I just go out and trade the car in and buy a brand new one and take over her car. but we have so many if's going right now. it's not the right time to add any new bill's like a car payment .

EvilHorace · Post by **EvilHorace** » Sat Mar 08, 2014 10:45 am

If what you mean by "tons of electrical problems" was what you posted a few months earlier, to me those are all just minor things that eventually happen to older cars and are not huge deals or costly, difficult to repair. If you don't constantly repair, maintain older cars, eventually this list of problems grows and seems worse than it really is.

As for my earlier suggestion, that simple alternator test takes 2 minutes with a volt meter. It's either charging or not.