1971 Plymouth Duster EV

Err · Post by **Err** » Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:04 am

1971 Duster EV

renovation · Post by **renovation** » Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:55 am

nice ~~ wonder what top speed is ~

Err · Post by **Err** » Mon Oct 06, 2008 10:56 am

renovation wrote:nice ~~ wonder what top speed is ~

I'm wondering what the range will be. My Dad has a 1972 Duster 340. The trunk and engine compartment are hudge. There's ample room for batteries. From what I've seen in other EV conversions, this car will be quick despite weighing 2 tons.

I really think EV's are the future and wish GM, Chrysler, and shade-tree mechanics like this guy the best of luck.

Key Keeper · Post by **Key Keeper** » Mon Oct 06, 2008 11:03 am

Very cool. I like the adapter plate and clutch hub idea.

Pugsley · Post by **Pugsley** » Mon Oct 06, 2008 11:15 am

Its electric, I should not need a trans.

Err · Post by **Err** » Mon Oct 06, 2008 11:19 am

Pugsley wrote:Its electric, I should not need a trans.

I was wondering about that. Can you gain efficiency from an electric motor by gearing it down so it runs at a lower RPM are cruising speeds?

Key Keeper · Post by **Key Keeper** » Mon Oct 06, 2008 12:31 pm

Pugsley wrote:Its electric, I should not need a trans.

In order to maintain battery life, you have to reduce inrush (FLA draw @ locked rotor). Gearing down the motor with the use of a gearbox or transimission drasticly reduces the hp rating needed for the motor. Also, locked rotor current for DC motors is very high which creates tremendous amounts of heat, another byproduct that is expelled by use of gear reductions. The duty cycle on this thing would be very drastic though since the clutch has been removed. An automatic would have been far more reasonable. Im wondering how you would time shifts since using a variable resistor to control motor output speed (assuming). Without the inertia of the fly wheel buffering engine speed to match trans input shaft speed, shift timing would be a pain. I would also assume that some sort of capacitors would also be needed for starting. I would have used lower voltage with a parallel-series system.

Pugsley · Post by **Pugsley** » Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:02 pm

if he is going to use a resistor to control speed then the trans is moot.

Key Keeper · Post by **Key Keeper** » Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:16 pm

The trans is not moot. The only way to get around using a transmission is to put a SUPER HIGH HORSPOWER electric motor in the car and then the INRUSH current would be so high during take off it would burn the motor up. The car would have to be very light for direct applicaton..... This is a heavy car so the transmission reduces the current draw during rotor stall time (keeping heat under control and preserving batt life). The transmission helps get the motor out of stall. Once the car has enough intertia then motor voltage can be trimmed to control speed.

Btw this is where I work

http://www.tecowestinghouse.com

Pugsley · Post by **Pugsley** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 7:21 am

well then you know what your talking about... I figured that was a brushed DC motor... If i did it i would want to use a AC servo motor. But that would require fancy inverters and what not... but then a starting curve could be programmed and it could also do regen.

Key Keeper · Post by **Key Keeper** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 10:33 am

I agree an AC motor would have been the way to go. With that much DC current the required ac voltage should be do-able. Add a VFD and it would be golden. Im kinda curious that the batt life would be using a converter since amp draw kind of goes out the window.

Pugsley · Post by **Pugsley** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 4:36 pm

Yep. thats why I would want AC with a VFD, so you didn't have to worry about all that.

normalicy · Post by **normalicy** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 10:03 pm

Here's a great link on how shifting works with electric.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Liqv3KgX ... re=related