Starting to build my comp

Post by **FlyingPenguin** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 10:01 am

Static damage causes no noticable change. It damages the transistor junctions inside.

It's really no big deal. Use the strap while installing the CPU and memory. Use it when installing the cards if you want, but it's not necessary. Just get in the habit of touching the metal case with a fingertip everytime you reach inside.

Install the CPU and ram with the mobo OUTSIDE the case. It's harder to install them after the case is installed. It's also easier to tell if the heat sink is properly seated. Put the mobo on a flat surface liek a table - put the static bag and foam pad it came shipped with underneath it to protect the table from the sharp bits, and protect the mobo.

One word of caution: be careful when inserting the memory sticks. Most memory sockets are tight and it takes a lot of pressure to fully seat the memory sticks. Trouble is that most mobos are poorly supported under the ram sockets and will bend and flex when you press the memory into the sockets.

It's possible (seen often and done it myself once) to put a hairline crack in the mobo or even the memory sticks. Once that happens, it's game over.

This is why it's better to install the ram whiel the mobo is sitting flat on a table (with a pad under it). Even better, I like to put the palm of one hand behind the mobo under the sockets while inserting the ram.

The PSU wires can usually only connect to one place. The exception is that some newer mobos have wires with what looks like standard drive power connectors on them but only two wires. These should NOT be used on HDDs or CD drives or video cards (like the Radeon that has an auxiliiary power connector). They only have 12 volts and are intended for use ONLY with cooling fans.

If the PSU is Pentium4 rated there will be 2 or 3 extra power cables that your mobo may or may not require. AMD mobos don't require them, and not all P4 mobos use them. Use a nylon tie to wrap up any unused cabled out of the way.

The mobo PSU connector is unique, then there's the connectors for the drives and floppy.

SAFETY TIP: I like to tape over the ends of any unused power connectors. It's possible for a pointy metal corner or screw head in the case to get jammed into a power connector. I've seen it happen. If it shorts the 5 or 12 volt buss to ground the PSU explodes very nicely.

USE SCOTCH TAPE NOT ELECTRICAL TAPE. One piece folded over the end of the connector. Scotch tape does not leave a sticky residue so you can easily remove the tape later if you need to use the connector in the future (one reason I love Dells so much - they actually put these sexy little black caps on the ends of all the unused connectors - nice touch).

eGoCeNTRoNiX · Post by **eGoCeNTRoNiX** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 12:12 pm

If the PSU is Pentium4 rated there will be 2 or 3 extra power cables that your mobo may or may not require. AMD mobos don't require them, and not all P4 mobos use them. Use a nylon tie to wrap up any unused cabled out of the way.

My MIS 4M7M Or somethin' like that has the spot for the P4 connector and requires it to boot. I didn't notice it when I first installed the board and drove myself crazy for 5 hours switching stuff out and then I saw it hiding under my Zalman 6000AlCu.. Well, needless to say I switched HSF and plugged it in and BAM! he he.. eGo

StEaLtH-X · Post by **StEaLtH-X** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 1:00 pm

I'm starting back to work in just a sec.. Will prolly start with the mobo.. Gonna put the CPU and the HSF in first ,any suggestions?

Post by **FlyingPenguin** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 1:08 pm

If this is an AMD CPU be VERY careful when installing the heat sink. The natural tendency is to install it at an angle to get the first clip on. You can easily chip or crack the core of the CPU that way.

ALWAYS sit the heat sink flush on the CPU. While holding it flush and level, snap the first clip by hand and the second clip with a screw driver or needle nose pliers (one or both of the clips will have a hole and groove to insert a screwdriver blade into to press it down with).

You should orient the heatsink so the 2nd clip (the one you'll need a tool for) is on the side of the socket that's protected with a plastic shield (most of the good mobos have them) to prevent you from gouging the mobo if the tool slips. If there's no shield, wedge a credit card in position to protect the mobo. If you gouge or scratch a foil trace, it's history.

Dunno if anyone has mentioned heatsink compound yet. Hopefully you're using the good stuff like artic silver, although the white stuff from Radio Shack works in a pinch - just don't plan on overclocking.

You don't want to spread it thick. Only thick enough to opaquely cover the core of the CPU, and cover it evenly.

Application instructions here: http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silv ... ctions.htm

StEaLtH-X · Post by **StEaLtH-X** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 1:14 pm

dont have any compound

eGoCeNTRoNiX · Post by **eGoCeNTRoNiX** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 1:47 pm

I think you do.. If so, it should have come with a thermal pad that is attached to the bottom of the HSF this will do for now, but you'll need to get some of the above mentioned compound in order to help you with your cooling/OCin' in the future.. Just follow FP's instructions and you should be fine.. eGo

StEaLtH-X · Post by **StEaLtH-X** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 1:55 pm

It is the retail XP 2500+.. I'm going out later so should I get some at radio shack? cuz I really dont feel like ordering some..

eGoCeNTRoNiX · Post by **eGoCeNTRoNiX** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 1:58 pm

Than the thermal pad that's on there.. Bu tyou will need to be sure and get ALL of the thermal pad off of the HSF. eGo

StEaLtH-X · Post by **StEaLtH-X** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 2:06 pm

is it worth the trouble?? From what i've read, some of the good stuff only brings the temp down by about 1-2C.. Doesnt seem worth it some say the HSF pad does just as well..

EDIT--- Keep in mind I have 2 exaust fans, 2 intake fans and the fans on the PSU which makes 6 plus the HSF which is 7

eGoCeNTRoNiX · Post by **eGoCeNTRoNiX** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 3:21 pm

Well, I think the 1-2*C difference is between different compounds, not the pad. Because I had a Celeron 667@830mhz running at 54*C w/the pad then switched to grease later 34*C with the grease..

So you can take your pic. You're the one who has to decide if it's worth the trouble as you are building this rig, not us.. eGo

StEaLtH-X · Post by **StEaLtH-X** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 3:23 pm

I cant tell if it has a pad or not what does it look like.. Also I'm gonna see if my freind has any compound.. do you think the radio shack kind will work ok??

eGoCeNTRoNiX · Post by **eGoCeNTRoNiX** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 3:25 pm

Otherwise it will just be metal.. Should have something to peel off, or come with something like double stick tape to put on it. The radio shack stuff is what I used on the celeron.. It's like 2.99 for a tube that will do hundreds of CPUs.. eGo

StEaLtH-X · Post by **StEaLtH-X** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 3:26 pm

so would you recomend the radio shack stuff cuz I can pick some up soon..

EDIT--- Also i'm going to be using windows xp pro do you think that is ok? Isnt much difference from pro or home is there?

eGoCeNTRoNiX · Post by **eGoCeNTRoNiX** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 3:30 pm

For now.. Later on you'll probably want to upgrade to something else. XPro is much nicer than home, but most people won't notice the difference. eGo

StEaLtH-X · Post by **StEaLtH-X** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 3:32 pm

Thanks.. Also I will buy the stuff at radio shack is it hard to get it off later??

PCA Forums

Starting to build my comp

They Do Too!

You've got the Retail HSF right?

It will be better..

Pad is bad..

It should be obvious if there's a pad..

It will work..