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I took my new mobo/cpu to a local guy to install because my eyes are getting funky.

i am upgrading from older gigabyte mobo - to newer gigabyte mobo - Gigabyte Black Edition LGA 1150 Intel Z97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboards GA-Z97X-UD5H-BK

different socket/chipset

just talked to him and it is blue screening after windows logo - not letting him logon

he has one of those faux windows startup disks that runs a virtual os and it works fine.

he is thinking the problem is that the existing boot drive is trying to pull the old chipset drivers - any and all ideas welcomed!

I'd try a fresh install of windows. If that doesn't work, try a different hard drive.

If I understand, you swapped the mobo but are try to use the existing OS install? That almost never works unless you are VERY lucky, or the mobo has the same chipset.

The problem is either the old hard drive controller driver causing problems, OR the new hard drive controller needs a driver that the OS doesn't have.

There is also the problem that some controllers are addressed differently on different mobos, so the old OS may be looking for a drive address that no longer exists.

You are always better off with a clean install. HOWEVER, you may be able to make this work, assuming you can hook the drive up to the old mobo temporarily (doesn't have to be mounted in the case), and are willing to waste some time. I would recommend the clean install, though, honestly, because you are going to inherit all kinds of registry crap from the old mobo's drivers.

Anyway, once you boot it with the old mobo, backup your data (if you haven't yet) because this may go wrong (although the data should remain readable as a spare drive, why take chances?).

Next, you want to uninstall your AV - it will only cause problems. Re-install it later.

Next try to install the chipset and hard drive controller drivers for the new mobo. It won't detect the hardware and abort, but it may at least load the drivers so they're now available when you do boot from the new mobo.

If the drivers for the old mobo are listed in Add/Remove programs, then uninstall them all (LAN, SOUND, CHIPSET, ETC). DO NOT allow it to reboot! I would even uninstall the video driver (again, do not allow to reboot).

Go to the Device Manager and uninstall each of the hard drive controllers. It will want to reboot afterwards. DO NOT REBOOT - just shut down.

Connect the drive to the new mobo (make sure you are connected to the Internet so Windows Update can download drivers), boot and see if you get lucky. Since there's no hard driver controller installed it MAY load the correct driver and get past the BSOD.

If that doesn't work, try booting into Safe Mode.

If that doesn't work, go into the BIOS menu and try some alternative settings for the SATA controller mode. More than likely it's on AHCI by default. Try other choices like Legacy (may be called IDE Emulation). That forces Windows to use a generic IDE driver which may allow you to boot into the OS. Legacy will work just fine BTW, although if you're using an SSD for the boot drive, AHCI will be faster. You should be able to install the hard drive driver once it boots, and then you could switch SATA mode back to AHCI.

A lot of Intel chip set mobos default to having RAID enabled (even with only one drive installed). Check the BIOS menu to make sure RAID is disabled.

If you DO get it to work, the FIRST thing you need to do is install the latest chipset drivers for the new mobo, then hard drive controller drivers, and then the video drivers. If Windows found audio and LAN drivers I'd stick with those.

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THE ACRONIS WAY:

For anyone's information, there IS a way to do this (use an old OS on a new mobo) that usually works reliably:

Acronis True Image has an optional add-on (costs extra) called Universal Restore: http://www.acronis.com/en-us/business/u ... l-restore/

It used to require the purchase of the PLUS Pack with Acronis 2013 and earlier. Now Universal Restore is part of Acronis True Image 2014 Premium.

Universal Restore allows you to restore an image of an OS, and in the process strips the all the drivers and hardware dependencies. It then auto-installs drivers into the restored image, prompting you for any drivers it doesn't have.

I've done this a couple of times for mission critical PCs, when they're running some kind of custom software or very old software, and the client has no hope of finding an installer for it.

+1 everything Bob just covered.

I agree. I would simply grab a new HDD, install a fresh Windows OS and then connect the old hard as a 2nd drive. Grab whatever documents/photos you want off that old drive, over to the new and then format the old one.

I'd use the old one then for additional storage afterward or as a backup copy of my documents on the new drive. Can't hurt.

FlyingPenguin wrote:THE ACRONIS WAY:

For anyone's information, there IS a way to do this (use an old OS on a new mobo) that usually works reliably:

Acronis True Image has an optional add-on (costs extra) called Universal Restore: http://www.acronis.com/en-us/business/u ... l-restore/

It used to require the purchase of the PLUS Pack with Acronis 2013 and earlier. Now Universal Restore is part of Acronis True Image 2014 Premium.

Universal Restore allows you to restore an image of an OS, and in the process strips the all the drivers and hardware dependencies. It then auto-installs drivers into the restored image, prompting you for any drivers it doesn't have.

I've done this a couple of times for mission critical PCs, when they're running some kind of custom software or very old software, and the client has no hope of finding an installer for it.

Thanks for this tip.

Thanks gang. Didn't really know if it would fly or not. The Acronis thing is cool and reasonable but I reckon that I will still have all the left overs from 4+ years on that install. I will probably do a new install. The install on the old computer has 4+ years of cooties. I have no idea what happened to the original windows disk, it was oem win7 pro, but I do have the serial. I do have another win7 disk, but I think the license is just 32 bit. I seem to remember that once upon a time MS put everything on the disk and then just let you install what was licensed. Is that still the case? sheesh - been a while since I've done this

ps - found this which has some good stuff on it. Downloading a clean copy of 7 pro 64.

http://best-windows.vlaurie.com/boot-disks.html#full

Yeah, any 64-bit installer disc will do - even an OEM disc from Dell. It just needs to match the license (Home, Premium, etc). However the license will work on either the 32-bit or 64-bit versions.

Nowadays there's no reason to go 32-bit unless you have some REALLY old app that doesn't work in 64-bit.

Yup, you're better off with a clean install. Amazing how the crud that accumulates over the years slows down an OS.

ok, clean install done and up and running. I'll start a new thread on the build.

thanks!

Did a clean install.

I upgraded my ram to crucial 1600 which runs fine, but it is running in single channel and for the life of me I can't figure out how to enable dual channel. Can't believe how much time I've wasted on this. I have searched high and low, and can't find any mention of the issue. Going in, I knew this mobo had some issues, but it had the highest memory throughput - in dual channel - the bios setup screens are confusing and complicated but I think I've looked at every damn setting there is. This rig is fast enough that it really doesn't make any difference from a practical viewpoint but it's frustrating.

I am running ver 6 in the bios and the only upgrade is to a beta, dunno if I should try that or not. I had a bios flash fail back in the day and it was a pain. This board has dual bios, one is a shadow that only updates if the system boots ok, but I don't know about using a beta.


The mobo is a Gigabyte-me GA-Z97X-UD5H-BK

I wish I'd bought the Asrock board instead, but I don't want to install a new mobo because it's a pain and my vision is lousy.

I've never seen a BIOS setting for dual channel. To use Dual Channel just make sure to put the RAM sticks in the correct sockets. Dual channel requires you to install the RAM in pairs. The sticks in each pair need to match, otherwise the mobo won't enable dual channel.

I downloaded the manual for your mobo, and on your mobo, there are 4 slots numbered (from the CPU) 4,2,3,1.

If you have 2 sticks, then they need to be installed in 4 & 2 or 3 & 1. Doesn't matter, but my preference is to always use the two closest to the CPU (4 & 2 in your case), which I marked with red arrows in the diagram below:

Yeah john I had to look at the manual on my new mobo to see where one set of RAM needed to be installed to get the maximum speed out of them.

I couldn't see the pic Pengo posted, but I would definitely check the mobo manual and/or website for the correct placement for dual channel. If that fails, try another pair of RAM chips if you have them or if you can beg borrow or steal another set.

I use reading glasses and a bright flashlight to be able to see all the crap printed on the motherboards nowadays.

I've got them in 1 and 3, because the manual said that was the best, I'll try 2 and 4 again.

FP - that's the way it was on my last gigabyte board - just put it in the right slot

thx guys

I use reading glasses and a bright flashlight to be able to see all the crap printed on the motherboards nowadays.

Ditto. I have a pair of really strong 4.00+ reading glasses for reading tiny things (for actually reading I use 1.50+).

Then I have one great single bulb ultra bright tactical LED flashlight.

A few years ago I picked up a (relatively) inexpensive pair of dentist's binocular loupe glasses. You can find them as cheap as $50 on Ebay but the quality varies, closer to $100 for something decent on Amazon. I use them for REALLY tiny things, like re-soldering surface mount components or fixing damaged PC board traces.

I've got them in 1 and 3, because the manual said that was the best, I'll try 2 and 4 again.

If that doesn't work, I'd be concerned that one of the sticks isn't good and can't match the speed of the other stick. You could try reducing the RAM clock, and see if it does allow it to go into dual channel. If that works, I'd RMA both sticks (since they come as a matched pair), unless it only takes a very small underclock to make it work (RAM speed really isn't that critical anymore - there are other bottlenecks). You could also try upping the RAM voltage slightly, but a Crucial two stick kit should have worked right out of the box.

When you do get it working, I'd run the latest MEMTEST 86+ overnight to burn the RAM in and see if you get any errors. Last thing you need is stability issues and random lockups.

You didn't buy the Crucial performance RAM, did you? I think it's called Ballistix or something? Not a fan. Unfortunately, they're like all the other performance RAM in that they may need special timing settings to work properly. I never buy performance RAM. It's only for serious overclocking, and there's really no reason to overclock anymore IMO. I just want to plug sticks in and go with default timings.

If it IS the performance stuff, you should contact Crucial via email and ask them for recommended timing settings. You could also search the Crucial forums for your mobo's model and see if anyone's posted timings they're using.

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Quick search and I found someone posted that they were having issues with random freezing with the Crucial Ballistix DDR3 1600 and your mobo. He wound up replacing it with the G.Skill RipJaw X. Never been a fan of the Ripjaws myself - they usually require timing tweaking as well.

http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/ ... ng-issues/

If dual channel isn't working, that might be an indication of an issue with one of the sticks of memory or the motherboard itself. Which could trigger the issues you are running into. The problem sometimes with memtest is it does indicate a problem, but it doesn't always mean its the memory causing it.