My problem is probably obvious to someone who plays around with guts of a PC all the time. I rebuilt my PC with a new motherboard(ATX Intel 848P), CPU(Celeron D), power supply(400W), and case - but just plugged in the old memory(? can't tell what it is).
When I plugged it in, the power supply popped and died - I had some jumper wires crossed. Fixed that & the new power supply powered it up. The BIOS runs and it gets to the Windows selection. Selecting any mode, even Safe Mode, it starts loading up drivers - gets to:
multi(0) disk(0) rdisk(0) partition(1) \windows\system32\drivers\mup.sys
And then just stops.
Did I fry something? Is it the wrong memory? Anyone know what's happening?
PC Rebuild freeze-up disaster
PC Rebuild freeze-up disaster
And I make an end.
Welcome to pca 
Sounds like it could be either the ram or cpu. I'd first try ram you know is good, then another cpu if you have one.
from google:
MUP stands for "Multiple UNC Provider" which assists Windows in locating resources when more than one redirector is on a machine such as "Microsoft Client for Microsoft Networks" and the "Novell Client for Novell Netware". When a connection to a server is requested it does not know if the request is to a Novell server or an NT server. It will start looking for the server with the primary protocol on the primary requestor and then continue looking for the server on each protocol bound to each redirector until the server is found."
Heres a fix posted on another site. Start the Recovery console or.. Start the computer with the boot disks or Windows CDROM After the Welcome to Setup dialog box appears, press R to repair, and then press C to start Recovery console. Choose install Windows and log on as Administrator. At the command prompt type "disable Mup.sys" "".
When a connection to a server is requested it does not know if the request is to a Novell server or an NT server. It will start looking for the server with the primary protocol on the primary requestor and then continue looking for the server on each protocol bound to each redirector until the server is found." Restart the computer and all should be well. "
If that all fails, then a re-install of wondows would probably be needed.
Good luck.
Sounds like it could be either the ram or cpu. I'd first try ram you know is good, then another cpu if you have one.
from google:
MUP stands for "Multiple UNC Provider" which assists Windows in locating resources when more than one redirector is on a machine such as "Microsoft Client for Microsoft Networks" and the "Novell Client for Novell Netware". When a connection to a server is requested it does not know if the request is to a Novell server or an NT server. It will start looking for the server with the primary protocol on the primary requestor and then continue looking for the server on each protocol bound to each redirector until the server is found."
Heres a fix posted on another site. Start the Recovery console or.. Start the computer with the boot disks or Windows CDROM After the Welcome to Setup dialog box appears, press R to repair, and then press C to start Recovery console. Choose install Windows and log on as Administrator. At the command prompt type "disable Mup.sys" "".
When a connection to a server is requested it does not know if the request is to a Novell server or an NT server. It will start looking for the server with the primary protocol on the primary requestor and then continue looking for the server on each protocol bound to each redirector until the server is found." Restart the computer and all should be well. "
If that all fails, then a re-install of wondows would probably be needed.
Good luck.
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FlyingPenguin
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HOLD ON. You've installed a new mobo but using the same install of your WindowsXP OS?
You CANNOT just boot up into Windows with the new mobo. Windows is device specific and will not find the boot partition in the same address as it was before because your EIDE controller is a different chip with a different address.
You must do a repair install of Windows.
REPAIR INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS HERE: http://www.michaelstevenstech.com/XPrepairinstall.htm
Be aware of a few things concerning a repair install:
- Before doing the repair install, disconnect ALL external devices (printers, scanners, etc).
- If the repair install stalls on you at any time, shut down the computer and pull all cards except the video card. Go into BIOS and temporarily disable any onboard sound or NICs. Once you get Windows running you can reconenct everything ONE AT A TIME and let it install drivers.
- Your device manager will be wiped and ALL devices redetected. Have your drivers ready. If your hard drive controller is treated as a SCSI controller then you'll need to have the SATA driver on a FLOPPY (not a CD or the HDD) and press F6 when prompted to install SCSI or Other Controller drivers.
- A repair install will put Windows back to the same version as on the install CD. If the install CD is pre- SP1 then no service packs will be installed. If SP1 then WinXP will only be SP1, etc. If you have a WinXP CD with your last service pack slipstreamed on it then use it to save time, otherwise you need to install the latest service pack afterwards.
- You will not lose any programs or data.
- You will have to activate WindowsXP when you do finally get it booted up. Windows will detect the hardware changes and require activation.
- If you're using a recent version of Norton Anti-Virus, it will almost certainly need to be re-installed. Norton from version 2003 on is keyed to your hardware like WindowsXP and when it detects a major hardware change, it deactivates the subscription.
- ALL Windows updates will have to be re-installed afterwards.
- Keep in mind that until you install all the updates or SP2, your system will be WIDE OPEN to MSBLAST and Sasser viruses. Enable the firewall or make sure you're behind a NAT router before connecting to the Internet or you will IMMEDIATELY be infected.
Be aware that shorting out the PSU was not good. You may have damaged the mobo, or scrambled the hard drive. You won't know for sure until you do the repair install and try to boot into Windows. Chances are everything is okay because it's POSTING and trying to boot. Just be aware it's possible you've done some damage.
I've seen shorted PSUs do all kinds of damage.
You CANNOT just boot up into Windows with the new mobo. Windows is device specific and will not find the boot partition in the same address as it was before because your EIDE controller is a different chip with a different address.
You must do a repair install of Windows.
REPAIR INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS HERE: http://www.michaelstevenstech.com/XPrepairinstall.htm
Be aware of a few things concerning a repair install:
- Before doing the repair install, disconnect ALL external devices (printers, scanners, etc).
- If the repair install stalls on you at any time, shut down the computer and pull all cards except the video card. Go into BIOS and temporarily disable any onboard sound or NICs. Once you get Windows running you can reconenct everything ONE AT A TIME and let it install drivers.
- Your device manager will be wiped and ALL devices redetected. Have your drivers ready. If your hard drive controller is treated as a SCSI controller then you'll need to have the SATA driver on a FLOPPY (not a CD or the HDD) and press F6 when prompted to install SCSI or Other Controller drivers.
- A repair install will put Windows back to the same version as on the install CD. If the install CD is pre- SP1 then no service packs will be installed. If SP1 then WinXP will only be SP1, etc. If you have a WinXP CD with your last service pack slipstreamed on it then use it to save time, otherwise you need to install the latest service pack afterwards.
- You will not lose any programs or data.
- You will have to activate WindowsXP when you do finally get it booted up. Windows will detect the hardware changes and require activation.
- If you're using a recent version of Norton Anti-Virus, it will almost certainly need to be re-installed. Norton from version 2003 on is keyed to your hardware like WindowsXP and when it detects a major hardware change, it deactivates the subscription.
- ALL Windows updates will have to be re-installed afterwards.
- Keep in mind that until you install all the updates or SP2, your system will be WIDE OPEN to MSBLAST and Sasser viruses. Enable the firewall or make sure you're behind a NAT router before connecting to the Internet or you will IMMEDIATELY be infected.
Be aware that shorting out the PSU was not good. You may have damaged the mobo, or scrambled the hard drive. You won't know for sure until you do the repair install and try to boot into Windows. Chances are everything is okay because it's POSTING and trying to boot. Just be aware it's possible you've done some damage.
I've seen shorted PSUs do all kinds of damage.
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“The Government of Spain will not applaud those who set the world on fire just because they show up with a bucket.” - Prime Minister of Spain, Pedro Sánchez
“The Government of Spain will not applaud those who set the world on fire just because they show up with a bucket.” - Prime Minister of Spain, Pedro Sánchez
Ok, that all makes sense, thanks for your suggestions.
I guess I forgot some details though. First of all the original OS was XP, so if that makes a difference with the memory ... I'm really cheap so I hate to buy new memory if it doesn't need it.
All I had was an OEM disk, it can do a recover but it would delete everything. Sure I should have backed up before I did any of this but the thing just stopped working one day kinda sudden like and I hadn't prepared for it.
I did try to load a new XP OS but it gets to the part were it should read the CD and it just stops, no response - won't read the disk or respond to any commands to read it. I've been able to boot off the CD on another PC, so I'm preatty sure that works.
I don't have another CPU - that cheap gene I was talking about - I'm hoping that I didn't blow it up - It appears to be getting past just the BIOS. If I did damage the CPU, since it's trying to boot does that mean that it could have just partialy fried it?
Thanks again for all your advice!
I guess I forgot some details though. First of all the original OS was XP, so if that makes a difference with the memory ... I'm really cheap so I hate to buy new memory if it doesn't need it.
All I had was an OEM disk, it can do a recover but it would delete everything. Sure I should have backed up before I did any of this but the thing just stopped working one day kinda sudden like and I hadn't prepared for it.
I did try to load a new XP OS but it gets to the part were it should read the CD and it just stops, no response - won't read the disk or respond to any commands to read it. I've been able to boot off the CD on another PC, so I'm preatty sure that works.
I don't have another CPU - that cheap gene I was talking about - I'm hoping that I didn't blow it up - It appears to be getting past just the BIOS. If I did damage the CPU, since it's trying to boot does that mean that it could have just partialy fried it?
Thanks again for all your advice!
And I make an end.
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FlyingPenguin
- Flightless Bird
- Posts: 33161
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2000 11:13 am
- Location: Central Florida
- Contact:
No there's no special memory for each OS but what RexHavoc was implying is that the speed of the old memory may not be fast enough for the new mobo. For instance if it's PC66 and the new mobo requires PC133 then it might POST, but since the memory's running faster than spec it may not be stable.
If it's POSTing then the CPU is probably fine. But when a PSU pops it can damage the mobo or the memory or the CPU.
I would recommend you download a memory tester like MemTest86 and let it run through a complete memory diagnostic: http://www.memtest86.com/
This will take an hour or more to do one pass.
If the memory passes I'd say the CPU and RAM are fine. The mobo's probably fine although you may have a damaged IDE controller.
Make sure the hard drive is jumpered correctly. Most modern mobos prefer you jumper all drives as CS instead of Master or Slave.
Make sure you have BIOS setup to AUTO detect the drive - don't try manually specifying it.
If this drive was connected to an much older mobo it's possible it has a Disk Manager installed. Older mobos can't address large drives. If it has a Disk Manager on it it will not allow you to install a new OS on it. These are difficult to remove without the original disk you used to install it (and a format won't remove it). More info here: http://www.pcguide.com/ref/hdd/bios/overDDO-c.html
If it's POSTing then the CPU is probably fine. But when a PSU pops it can damage the mobo or the memory or the CPU.
I would recommend you download a memory tester like MemTest86 and let it run through a complete memory diagnostic: http://www.memtest86.com/
This will take an hour or more to do one pass.
If the memory passes I'd say the CPU and RAM are fine. The mobo's probably fine although you may have a damaged IDE controller.
Make sure the hard drive is jumpered correctly. Most modern mobos prefer you jumper all drives as CS instead of Master or Slave.
Make sure you have BIOS setup to AUTO detect the drive - don't try manually specifying it.
If this drive was connected to an much older mobo it's possible it has a Disk Manager installed. Older mobos can't address large drives. If it has a Disk Manager on it it will not allow you to install a new OS on it. These are difficult to remove without the original disk you used to install it (and a format won't remove it). More info here: http://www.pcguide.com/ref/hdd/bios/overDDO-c.html
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“The Government of Spain will not applaud those who set the world on fire just because they show up with a bucket.” - Prime Minister of Spain, Pedro Sánchez
“The Government of Spain will not applaud those who set the world on fire just because they show up with a bucket.” - Prime Minister of Spain, Pedro Sánchez