Rewind to 16yrs old again
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Key Keeper
- Posts: 1564
- Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2004 12:17 pm
- Location: Austin TX
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Key Keeper
- Posts: 1564
- Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2004 12:17 pm
- Location: Austin TX
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Key Keeper
- Posts: 1564
- Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2004 12:17 pm
- Location: Austin TX
The original is well......it currently fits inside a big roll around plastic trashcan with the lid closed lol. It did not come out easy.
Depending on how much the window guys are going to charge me for the windshield and install, I may go back glass. If its over $280, then Im going lexan and doing it myself.
Depending on how much the window guys are going to charge me for the windshield and install, I may go back glass. If its over $280, then Im going lexan and doing it myself.
[email="chevelle.h@gmail.com"][color="red"]MAIL[/color][/email]
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Key Keeper
- Posts: 1564
- Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2004 12:17 pm
- Location: Austin TX
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Key Keeper
- Posts: 1564
- Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2004 12:17 pm
- Location: Austin TX
I don't see any obvious flaws, but I'm used to looking at diagrams that use numbering for the relays.
Few observations. It is odd that you're using a ground driven ignition switch & thus require a relay to power the solenoid instead of just the ignition switch. Also, you should fuse the fuel pump relays & N2O warmer. They should also be powered after the 150A fuse. I'm also a bit confused why you're powering the water pump via the MSD relay when you could just as well power it via the master relay.
Few observations. It is odd that you're using a ground driven ignition switch & thus require a relay to power the solenoid instead of just the ignition switch. Also, you should fuse the fuel pump relays & N2O warmer. They should also be powered after the 150A fuse. I'm also a bit confused why you're powering the water pump via the MSD relay when you could just as well power it via the master relay.
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Key Keeper
- Posts: 1564
- Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2004 12:17 pm
- Location: Austin TX
For the waterpump setup, I dont want it running unless the ignition is on. I can leave the pump switch in the on position at all times unless Im playing with the msd advance curve programming or checking relay functionality, then I can just switch the pump to OFF while im tinkering. With it alway in the ON position, i wont forget to turn it on and get an overheat condition. The current draw on the ford starter solenoids is not super high, but higher than a switch will maintain for a "constant" condition, hence the relay. Yes, you are right, the pumps need to be wired after the breaker, I knew I was missing something. And fuses as well. The nice thing about the pumps is they will be within a few feet of the breaker and battery so the chance of shorting to ground is pretty low, but better safe than sorry.
I have always preferred using grounding as the switch instead of a switch to port power. It simplifies things on the input side of relays since I can essentially daisy chain the relays off a single source high current device. Basically like having the battery right there under the dash. And makes for a simpler fuse location (all upstream of relay main inputs).
The other conundrum is how to active the second stage of N20 (dual plate system). Im thinking that using the window switch on the 6al2 will be the simplest bet, but trying to figure out how to kill the first stage in the event of a tire spin or breakage. dont want to bounce off the rev pill with the tank activated
....kaboom....headers laying on fenderwells)....My final conclusion is to use a standalone window switch for the second stage and set it a few hundred rpm lower than the pill and use the built in window switch on the 6AL2 for the first stage. Thinking a stand alone schematic for the N2O is in order?
Another feature that I dont quite understand on the 6AL2 is the multiple rev limiters...1 for burnout, 1 for launch, and 1 for high speed. Im thinking the one for burnout is just about useless since i can control a burnout with the best of them. Now the launch one has my attention. I havent download the schematic yet, but Im guessing it uses either a 12v in signal, or a ground to active the different rev limiters for burn/launch. Im thinking of wiring the first stage through a 5 pin relay on the normally closed circuit, and then use the launch rev limiter to activate the relay and "break" the circuit.....think about it....sitting on rev limiter with foot to the floor (throttle switch closed), then release the rev limiter and 1stage goes live. Be a hell of a 60' time if I could keep wheel spin under control....10.5" slick
Also, Im considering NOT shifting on the bottle....with as hard as this trans hits, Im thinking it would be a good idea to get off the bottle right before the shift light comes on(using window switches). The trans shifts so fast, it would drop down to 3800rpm or so (back into window setting) and the bottle would go live again(first stage only). So I would be positively in the next gear before the gas ever went live again. Then second stage comes back on based on window switch setting. All of this through a throttle switch(end of line grounding) in case I have to pedal the car on a slick spot, the bottle would fall off. Hope this all make sense. Trying to figure out more than one task at a time when they are all intertwined is a pita! Now I see why people use separate 2 steps, window switches, and stand alone N2O controllers. The 6AL2 will do it all, I just need to get smart on it lol.
I have always preferred using grounding as the switch instead of a switch to port power. It simplifies things on the input side of relays since I can essentially daisy chain the relays off a single source high current device. Basically like having the battery right there under the dash. And makes for a simpler fuse location (all upstream of relay main inputs).
The other conundrum is how to active the second stage of N20 (dual plate system). Im thinking that using the window switch on the 6al2 will be the simplest bet, but trying to figure out how to kill the first stage in the event of a tire spin or breakage. dont want to bounce off the rev pill with the tank activated
....kaboom....headers laying on fenderwells)....My final conclusion is to use a standalone window switch for the second stage and set it a few hundred rpm lower than the pill and use the built in window switch on the 6AL2 for the first stage. Thinking a stand alone schematic for the N2O is in order?Another feature that I dont quite understand on the 6AL2 is the multiple rev limiters...1 for burnout, 1 for launch, and 1 for high speed. Im thinking the one for burnout is just about useless since i can control a burnout with the best of them. Now the launch one has my attention. I havent download the schematic yet, but Im guessing it uses either a 12v in signal, or a ground to active the different rev limiters for burn/launch. Im thinking of wiring the first stage through a 5 pin relay on the normally closed circuit, and then use the launch rev limiter to activate the relay and "break" the circuit.....think about it....sitting on rev limiter with foot to the floor (throttle switch closed), then release the rev limiter and 1stage goes live. Be a hell of a 60' time if I could keep wheel spin under control....10.5" slick
Also, Im considering NOT shifting on the bottle....with as hard as this trans hits, Im thinking it would be a good idea to get off the bottle right before the shift light comes on(using window switches). The trans shifts so fast, it would drop down to 3800rpm or so (back into window setting) and the bottle would go live again(first stage only). So I would be positively in the next gear before the gas ever went live again. Then second stage comes back on based on window switch setting. All of this through a throttle switch(end of line grounding) in case I have to pedal the car on a slick spot, the bottle would fall off. Hope this all make sense. Trying to figure out more than one task at a time when they are all intertwined is a pita! Now I see why people use separate 2 steps, window switches, and stand alone N2O controllers. The 6AL2 will do it all, I just need to get smart on it lol.
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OK, I see what you're saying with the waterpump.
Yeah, unfortunately, I'm not too keen how N2O systems are set up. It doesn't sound like it will be all that complicated. If you're only going to have 2-4 wires going from the main harness to the N2O system, I'd keep it on a separate schematic for simplicity sake as well as to make it easier to see what you're doing. If you do make the schematic, let me see it and explain what you're trying to accomplish. Though, it looks like you've got a grasp on things.
Yeah, unfortunately, I'm not too keen how N2O systems are set up. It doesn't sound like it will be all that complicated. If you're only going to have 2-4 wires going from the main harness to the N2O system, I'd keep it on a separate schematic for simplicity sake as well as to make it easier to see what you're doing. If you do make the schematic, let me see it and explain what you're trying to accomplish. Though, it looks like you've got a grasp on things.
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Key Keeper
- Posts: 1564
- Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2004 12:17 pm
- Location: Austin TX
Well tomorrow Im heading out to he country to pick up a powerplant. I picked up a 70s 4 bolt SBC std bore 350 in hopes of building it. Was late...dark....but the cylinders mic'd out at a hair under 4" bore and it has small ridge. The bad news is its a goodwrench crate motor block that was cast in mexico....crap iron....notorious for core shift during casting. And so it goes the cam bosses are not cast straight as I'd like them, and the over appearance of quality is poor. Luckily I only paid $30 bux for it so I can easily get my money back by just selling it to a machine shop.
The motor that was in my car is a 1969 HO 350 camaro motor based on the number. It does have the high nickel block, but its a std 2 bolt main. With as much N2O as Im going to shove down this things throat, I will at minimum need to stud the main caps and use a cap girdle. I'd like to do splayed caps, but thats just too damn expensive and usually end up with the saddles being machined higher yielding a non std timing gear height requirement $$$$$....
So I worked out a trade deal with an old high school bud. He has a .030 4bolt 350 with TRW forged flat tops, chevy "pink" rods with ARP bolts (will sell these and go eagle I beam), factor GM forged crank, and.....world product sportsman II heads (200cc intake runners!). The heads are the exact same ones I had on my old chevelle that ran 12.0's in 1/4mile. Will just have less compression than my old velle motor but with enough N2o I can make up the power. Should be easy high 11 motor since this bird is about 800-900# lighter than my all steel chevelle was. Will have to swap the mild cam thats in it to a 540/560 solid roller and port the bejezus out of the heads (230+cc).
Going to look at the motor tomorrow after work and hear it run. Sad that Im going to tear it apart as soon as I get it home LOL!
The motor that was in my car is a 1969 HO 350 camaro motor based on the number. It does have the high nickel block, but its a std 2 bolt main. With as much N2O as Im going to shove down this things throat, I will at minimum need to stud the main caps and use a cap girdle. I'd like to do splayed caps, but thats just too damn expensive and usually end up with the saddles being machined higher yielding a non std timing gear height requirement $$$$$....
So I worked out a trade deal with an old high school bud. He has a .030 4bolt 350 with TRW forged flat tops, chevy "pink" rods with ARP bolts (will sell these and go eagle I beam), factor GM forged crank, and.....world product sportsman II heads (200cc intake runners!). The heads are the exact same ones I had on my old chevelle that ran 12.0's in 1/4mile. Will just have less compression than my old velle motor but with enough N2o I can make up the power. Should be easy high 11 motor since this bird is about 800-900# lighter than my all steel chevelle was. Will have to swap the mild cam thats in it to a 540/560 solid roller and port the bejezus out of the heads (230+cc).
Going to look at the motor tomorrow after work and hear it run. Sad that Im going to tear it apart as soon as I get it home LOL!
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Key Keeper
- Posts: 1564
- Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2004 12:17 pm
- Location: Austin TX
Well with christmas gone finally, I can now get back on the bird. I really wanted to go BBC for $$$/HP reasons but came across a sweet deal that will temporally get me up and out to the 1320' Still have to sort out the disc brake kit, order the lexan windshield, and find me a donor 10 bolt before I can lay down some rubber. But at least I can stay motivated with a car that runs and drives.
Did some horse trading and ended up with a set of .030" .100 dome TRW skinny race ring pistons, a mild 490 lift hydraulic cam, and some world products sportsman II heads. Picked up a 5" autometer shift light tach, mini starter, and some other tid bits... for next to nothing. Going to punch out the block that was in the car, order a set of eagle I beam rods, and throw a 355 together. This should yield a mid 12sec car for piddling around. I found a 468 with 12:1 dome pistons thats collecting dust that may find its way between the frame rails down the road but who knows. Ive been grinding away on the heads and hope to have them ready for bronze guides in the next couple weeks. Sure wish they were aluminum but for what Ive got invested in them, they will work. 2.02/1.6 manley severe duty undercut 1 piece valves. I may ditch the intake and step up to the 2.055 valves as Ive read these heads respond well to the larger valve. Chamber will CC out to roughly 69cc once I have them milled. I may have to go E85 or stick with the 112/114 fuel but Im fine with that. Anyways heres some of my boring tedious grinding/porting. Started at 200cc runner, hope to land around 210cc. Still have to 1206 the intake runners and D port the long side exhaust runners.
Exhaust
Did some horse trading and ended up with a set of .030" .100 dome TRW skinny race ring pistons, a mild 490 lift hydraulic cam, and some world products sportsman II heads. Picked up a 5" autometer shift light tach, mini starter, and some other tid bits... for next to nothing. Going to punch out the block that was in the car, order a set of eagle I beam rods, and throw a 355 together. This should yield a mid 12sec car for piddling around. I found a 468 with 12:1 dome pistons thats collecting dust that may find its way between the frame rails down the road but who knows. Ive been grinding away on the heads and hope to have them ready for bronze guides in the next couple weeks. Sure wish they were aluminum but for what Ive got invested in them, they will work. 2.02/1.6 manley severe duty undercut 1 piece valves. I may ditch the intake and step up to the 2.055 valves as Ive read these heads respond well to the larger valve. Chamber will CC out to roughly 69cc once I have them milled. I may have to go E85 or stick with the 112/114 fuel but Im fine with that. Anyways heres some of my boring tedious grinding/porting. Started at 200cc runner, hope to land around 210cc. Still have to 1206 the intake runners and D port the long side exhaust runners.
Exhaust
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