Rewind to 16yrs old again

Key Keeper · Post by **Key Keeper** » Fri Sep 04, 2015 2:46 pm

Its the Sonterra subdivision in Jarrell. Its about a year old. Our house was built in Oct last year.

Just ordered a carpet, polished aluminum radiator, and complete weather strip kit. as you can see my window and door seals are shot all to hell.

Losbot · Post by **Losbot** » Fri Sep 04, 2015 3:19 pm

Still...it looks amazing for the rather short amount of time you've been working on it. Nice job.

Key Keeper · Post by **Key Keeper** » Mon Sep 14, 2015 1:05 pm

Well my goodies showed up and all installed except a few items from the weather strip kit. Found a lot of rust holes in the cowl area, so looks like more sheet metal work in the future. Anyways, some photos for viewing pleasure.

The center console had fake burlwood stuff on it so I vinyl wrapped the pieces that I could so it would all be black.

Also replaced the sacked out leaf springs. Lifted the rear up 6 inches! Now just need some 8" rims and 9.5" wide tires to fill the wheel housing.

before:

After:

Also finally got the body work sorted around the rear window, no more rust and nice gradual curves. The tears at the pillars are welded up and filled.

Car got hot a few weeks ago and popped a head gasket between 4 and 6. If my back wasnt giving me fits, I'd have already replaced the gasket. Needless to say I upgraded the 1 core junker that they had zip tied in with a 3 core big block radiator...fans are from a late model firebird and fit pretty well I think.

Err · Post by **Err** » Mon Sep 14, 2015 1:30 pm

It looks like it's coming along good.

Key Keeper · Post by **Key Keeper** » Tue Sep 22, 2015 11:35 am

Hit a road block last weekend....cowls are rotted out on both sides along with the upper dash...

Will pull the windshield this weekend and cut the top dash panel out. Luckily all the pieces that are rotted are readily available via many vendors. About $300 and I'll have all the pieces I need to bring it back to OEM.

wvjohn · Post by **wvjohn** » Tue Sep 22, 2015 8:51 pm

awesome job - thanks for the pics!

normalicy · Post by **normalicy** » Tue Sep 22, 2015 9:21 pm

Ugh, tough one, but it looks like you've already dealt with a lot of the harder stuff.

Losbot · Post by **Losbot** » Tue Sep 22, 2015 9:26 pm

Minor setback that looks under control, the way you're tackling this project.

Key Keeper · Post by **Key Keeper** » Wed Sep 23, 2015 11:20 am

Yeah I really didnt want to get this deep into the sheet metal work but Im so far into the car now theres no turning back. I havent ordered the parts yet. Im going to to go ahead and pull the other fender, entire front clip, motor and subframe out. I want to make sure the torque boxes are not rotted as this car will see quite a few dragway passes. Figure while Im there, go ahead and blast/powercoat the subframe, poly bushings, and disc brake kit. Can tinker with the motor as well. Ran the numbers on the block and it is either from a 68 camaro HO 350 or from a 70s BUS/HD application. I havent pulled the pan, but its supposedly a high nickel content 4 bolt main block and if the crank is original, will be a factory 5340 forged unit. I hope this is true as I could use it to build a pretty stout small block. The poncho guys will hate me for it, but will be a hell of a lot cheaper than a 455....

normalicy · Post by **normalicy** » Sun Sep 27, 2015 1:37 am

I know how you feel. That's part of why I'm so behind on my Jeep. Doing stuff right so that you can trust it for decades takes some dedication.

Key Keeper · Post by **Key Keeper** » Mon Sep 28, 2015 8:36 am

Yeah it does!

Pulled the heads...all the pistons have valve/piston contact marks on them. So I pulled the timing chain cover and the previous owner had put in a new timing chain/gears and had it out of time. Im surprised it ran as well as it did for the short time.

Regardless the heads are 882 smog pieces of junk, and after looking up into the crankcase with a flashlight, its a 010 2 bolt block so the stamped numbers are bogus

So Im torn. I know the location of a chevrolet 427 tonawanda tall deck that I can pick up for $385 bux......

Or I can go 5.3/5.7L LSx swap......

Or I can score a complete 455 poncho core for around $750.....

Decisions decisions...Im really leaning towards the 427 though. Problem is its in a flat nose bus! How the hell am I going to get it out? They wont let me use a torch either. I think they get dropped out of the bottom?

eGoCeNTRoNiX · Post by **eGoCeNTRoNiX** » Mon Sep 28, 2015 8:55 am

Just remember, there is no replacement for displacement.. lol

I love the way an old big block looks in a classic car. Don't get me wrong, the LS swaps look nice and it's a good way to get a more efficient setup, but I'd stay as true to the car as possible if it was me.

eGo

normalicy · Post by **normalicy** » Mon Sep 28, 2015 10:56 pm

Hmmm, I dunno. If you're not going to go full resto, I don't see any shame in going with an LS. You might also consider doing a injection conversion on an older block.

Key Keeper · Post by **Key Keeper** » Tue Sep 29, 2015 7:45 am

Realistically, LS would be the smartest thing overall. It would damn near generage Big block hp with mild modifications but it would never produce the kind of torque a big block chevy, or a poncho motor. The converter foot brakes at around 3300rpm so the Poncho may be out the window since they make peak torque around 3500rpm and then fall quickly. I can build a chevy rat motor that would pull to the moon and beyond for half the price of a poncho. But at the end of the day, LS with fuel injection would provide the most drivability and tunability ease with just a laptop.

Key Keeper · Post by **Key Keeper** » Tue Oct 06, 2015 9:18 am

Little more destruction...